Mission Blog #49

Family Visitors

When one is serving a mission, no matter where in the world that is, the thing that becomes more meaningful and cherished, is family. We have been very blessed as in our first 8 months in the Republic of Ireland we were assigned to Dundalk, which is exactly a 1 hr 10 minute drive to Tina's family in Belfast, Northern Ireland - brother James and sister-in-law Lorraine and their family. We made that trip probably 7-8 times, and James and Lorraine visited us twice in Dundalk. Our daughter, Michelle, who lives in Lichfield, England, was also able to get over for a visit last February. We are now just looking back on 10 days of having my sister, Jayna Campbell from Dallas and our daughter, Michelle visiting. They overlapped for a few days. And tucked in there, I had a big birthday - you know, the one that officially signals that you are old, with the silver lining of giving you discounts almost everywhere, Yay! Thanks to everyone who provided their birthday wishes.

Cliffs of Moher

Getting there is just half the fun. We took a coach tour to get to the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare; leaving Cork at 7:45am then north to Limerick to pick up more passengers (64 total onboard). We arrived at about 11am. Our driver/guide, Brian, was a wealth of knowledge. He provided 3 history lessons, narrating as he drove - about 20 minutes each part. Part 1 - the two most hated men in Ireland Dermot MacMurrough (that name's a bit familiar for some reason) and Oliver Cromwell; Part 2 - the Rebellions; Part 3 - the Troubles.

There are higher cliffs in Ireland, but at Moher, the paths are safe, there is a wonderful interpretive centre built right into the cliff, and you can say that you've been to 'Ireland's Best Visitor Attraction' 2023.

The cliffs run for about 14 kilometres and at their southern end, they rise about 700 ft just north of O'Brien's Tower. About 1.5 million visitors come to these cliffs each year from all over the world. It is truly breathtaking.

They say that at peak season 30,000 pairs of birds live on the cliffs, from 20 different species.

The Burren

From Moher, the coach tour took us up the coast north through the tiny town of Doolin, then on to the Burren. The limestone of the Burren is part of Europe's largest karst landscape. Again, getting there was tricky. In one stretch, our coach stopped and two smaller vehicles had to back down a hill - probably 400 metres, to find a place to pull out and to let us pass. 

Walking to where the views of the Atlantic Ocean were, took care and attention. 

On the horizon looking west, one can see the Aran Islands, famed for its wool that is the raw material for the famous Aran sweaters and other clothing.

Back to Dundalk

On Tuesday morning I took Jayna to the Cork Airport (5:30am, ouch) which is 10 minutes from our flat. Then at about 10am we drove to Dublin for an immigration appointment which took just 15 minutes. We drove on to Dundalk an hour up the M-1 and met up with our great friends, Mary Kenny and Alice Gernon.

The craic was great, and so was dinner out. We miss all the wonderful people in the Branch in Dundalk. 

Our sweet friend, Jonas Amadore, from Honduras who we attended the Preston Temple with in April, spoke in Dundalk's Branch sacrament meeting today and sent a recording to us. His first talk in church since he moved to Ireland 18 months ago. He joined the church 20 years ago, served a full-time mission in Brazil, then had many callings including a Bishop in his home country. Here he is challenged with the English language. It was a marvelous message about 'Having the Courage to Be a Follower of Jesus Christ'. We miss him, and love him. Another milestone for friends in Dundalk, the Castillo family, was the baptism yesterday of their daughter Belle. We wanted to be there but it is sometimes impossible to get to everything you'd like to.

Kinsale

On Wednesday we took Michelle to one of our favorite oceanside towns, Kinsale. After a great lunch, we went over to the Kinsale Museum (the former 16th century Kinsale Courthouse) which gave us all a great background on the history here, in particular the maritime history.

There was a giant of a man, Patrick Cotter O'Brien, who once lived in Kinsale. At 8 ft tall, the rest of us seem pretty puny.

At the time of its construction and launch in 1906 the RMS Lusitania was the largest passenger ship in the world. But just a few miles off the Head of Kinsale on May 7, 1915, it was sunk by a German U-boat torpedo. This model depicts how it lies now 300 feet below the surface. Of the 1,959 passengers, 761 survived. This act on a civilian ship turned public opinion in many countries against Germany, and contributed to decision by the U.S. to enter the War two years later.

Kinsale received its charter from King Edward III of England. This Corporation of Kinsale existed for over 500 years until 1840 when local government transferred to the town commissioners who had been elected.

On Christmas Eve morning, 1601 Spain unloaded men off of 28 ships, and fought here in the Battle of Kinsale, trying to beat the English and free Ireland. England won the battle in two hours. Seeing some of the artifacts of the battle brings it to life.

Charles Fort

Charles Fort is a bastion fort with an outer wall built in a star fashion, a layout designed to resist attack by cannon. It was completed in 1682 with intent to protect Kinsale from enemy attack. 

These octagonal shapes contained water tanks.

There has been a lighthouse at the fort for many years, since 1665. The current one was built in 1929.

The Officer barracks. The wall to the left is the 'blast wall' giving some protection in case the gunpowder building blew up.

The fort withstood its only siege for 13 days during the Williamite War of 1690, before it was overtaken. It was built with some weaknesses and those were communicated to enemies who exploited them.

Our guide told of one soldier who had been found to give away important intel to enemies, and of course he was brought to justice. On the main parade area he was strapped to a pole. The youngest soldiers (teenagers) were given turns of 25 lashes to his back, each, with occasional stoppages at the urging of the doctor; not out of mercy but to ensure they could continue out the full sentence. For 4 days he was lashed with cat-o-nine-tails, 2,000 times, until he died. There were many other horrors told to us - about the disease that was rampant, lack of sanitation, and so on. What a time in history.

Storage units.

We had the week previous, taken Jayna to Cobh but we were back again with Michelle. 

Rather than park up the steep hill by the Cathedral, we took a chance on finding some parking down near the promenade. And, luck would have it - two 'Age Friendly' parking spots were open. Given that I had one of those birthdays that officially mark me as 'aged', we took advantage.

Fota House & Gardens

The Smith-Barry family owned and lived in Fota for over 200 years. It is one of Ireland's best examples of Regency Architecture with neo classical interiors. 

It was all quite grand - notice the grates in the floor beside the columns - these covered the in-floor heating. 

This is one of the most unique and artistic sky-lites I've seen.

An oldie but a goodie. Singer machine from way back.

Mizen Head

They promote this spectacular place as the most southwesterly point on the Wild Atlantic Way. It is not the most southerly point, nor the most west - but I'm just a stickler I suppose. It was a 2 hour drive with about 1 hour on some of the harriest roads to-date in Ireland. When we left Cork, it was cloudy, then for 20 minutes or so we had rain bucketing down. We thought this might not be the day to get the views we hoped for. But, then things changed and we were bathed in sunshine and clear skies, which gave us the most glorious views. It was a perfect day.

One parks before paying for access to the bridge and to the former signal station on the opposite end of the bridge. 

The original bridge was a very early design made of reinforced concrete. This had a longer lifespan than steel in the salty fog and sea spray. It is 52 metres across, and 150 feet above the sea. The construction began in 1908 and was completed in 1910. It lasted nearly 100 years when engineers found signs of degradation. It was closed in February 2005. Demolition began in October 2009 and reconstructed in 2010. The new bridge has the same profile and features of the original, with enhanced screening and handrail protection. In this photo looking down, and south you will see far out on the horizon, a spec of land - which has a lighthouse on it. Also from here, all types of whale cruise these coastal waters, although we did not see any.

Over the bridge, then up another 100 steps or so, get you to this lookout - viewing north up the coast towards the Beara Peninsula.

The view south from the bridge is pretty spectacular. The water is clear and cold. Standing on one of the most amazing headlands on Ireland's Atlantic seaboard, looking out, hearing pounding waves, it is impossible to not feel humbled by God's creation.

There is alot of open water between here and Canada. Deep, ever-changing, full of marine life. The occasional watercraft, like this one, heading to the lighthouse island, makes a small ripple - just a drop in the water.

The walk to the bridge - and the signal station and original visitor pavilion out on the point.

Michelle loved our adventurous day to Mizen. The heights didn't seem to phase her. The fact the bridge was not a swaying suspension bridge helped us parents to feel more secure walking over it.

Straight down from the bridge - this made my gut twinge a bit, not gonna lie.

Mizen is a significant site for transatlantic shipping and communication. It afforded many Irish immigrants their final glimpse of home as they departed for new life half a world away.

And, the birthday dinner, with Michelle and Tina at the Cork & Fork, one of the great eateries in Cork City.

Our time with family here in Ireland was very precious. We drove 1700 kilometres, rode a bus another 450 km's, walked a zillion steps and stairs, ate too much, played games (we all had a win or two), we FaceTimed back home with our other children and grandchildren, and with Tina's brother James, we did six apartment inspections and two vehicle inspections, had many, many laughs, and just enjoyed all the beauties and history of this great little island that is home for now, and we said farewell to our friends the Evensons. 

We have also heard of upcoming transfers that will take Elder Durham away to Waterford, but will return Elder Caswell who we know very well. 

As of this evening, we are the only senior missionary couple in the Republic of Ireland, after our good friends, Ray & Louise Evenson, were released tonight and begin a month tour of Europe with their daughter before returning to their Utah home. There are 2 senior couples in Northern Ireland. More senior missionary couples are needed!!!

Until we meet again...

A scripture I'd like to share:

2 Nephi 29:7 "Know ye not that there are more nations than one? Know ye not that I, the Lord your God, have created all men, and that I remember those who are upon the isles of the sea; and that I rule in the heavens above and in the earth beneath; and I bring forth my word unto the children of men, yea, even upon all the nations of the earth?"

We know that our Father in Heaven is mindful of each of us, no matter our race, our gender, our religion, our wealth or poverty, or where we live. He and our Savior know us and have known us for a very long time. Have a great week as you go forward in faith with the things that are needed to be done, but more importantly, with loving the people and building the relationships in your life.

God bless,

   Elder Eric & Sister Tina McMurray

   Scotland-Ireland Mission